Summary June 19th – July 1st

Tuesday, June 19, 2001 Lee Davenport’s Apartment in Madison, WI

I think I skipped yesterday,  I rode around Madison a little on my bike, and wrote a lot. Lee and I rode out 
to Picnic point, which kind of juts out into Lake Menona. One can see the capital, and the University from 
there.
	We also had a nice dinner at E’toile. It wasn’t as spectacular as Jean Georges, but it was very 
tasty. Lee get’s a 50% discount also, so that was nice. Especially since we drank about 70 dollars worth of 
liquor.

Today I went Strawberry picking. Lee put me to work. On Friday’s she works for Home Grown Wisconsin. 
It’s a Cooperative between all of the local Organic Farmers in Madison. They put there product together, 
and drive down to Chicago on Tuesday and Friday’s to deliver all the organically grown produce to the 
gourmet restaurants in Chicago.  
	Lee worked out an arrangement, where Tuesday’s she would work at one of the Farm’s (Blue Sky 
Berry Farm), and Friday’s she drives to Chicago. So, today we trekked out to Blue Sky, and picked 
Strawberries for 2 and ½ hours. It was definitely tough on the back. In the beginning, I tried to stand, and 
reach over the Strawberries, and step whenever I needed to move. I did that for about an hour, then my 
back started to hurt. 
	Then I tried squatting over the rows of berries, and that eventually started hurting my ankle. So, 
the best solution turned out to be sitting down next to the rows of berries, and picking until I had picked all 
the berries within my reach. Then I would kind of skooch to the right or left a couple feet, and continue 
that. 
	That eventually degraded into laying on my side, then sitting up, then laying on the other side. 
When we were finished, I had strawberry butt from sitting in the strawberries that had fallen off the plants 
between the rows. After a couple hours, my body could definitely feel it. I can’t imagine doing that for 8 
hours a day. It would be agony. I definitely couldn’t be a farmer, but I suppose I can appreciate those 
people who are. 
	I actually thought of a cool invention. A strawberry lifter / picker helper. It could be a little 
platform that a person lays on maybe two and ½ feet off the ground. It could have wheels, and be pushed 
by one’s legs, or a motor. This way, you could be laying down, and picking strawberries at the same time. 
	I told it to Lulu, the woman who lived at Blue Sky, and she nodded, and said “Hurt your back 
huh?” – I said “yea, a little.” I asked Lulu what she liked most about farming, and she said “I like working 
with the earth.” “And, I like knowing that I grow a quality product, that is safe to eat right off the plants.” I 
respected that, and said “Nice.”
	After we were done, she went to pay me, and I said, “The experience was payment enough.” – I 
gave my salary to Lee.  She sells each basket of Strawberries for 3 dollars. We picked about 36 baskets in 
about 2 and ½ hours.  She paid us 7.50 cents an hour, for 18.75 total. We picked about 14.4 baskets per 
hour. So, we generated them approximately 43 dollars an hour minus our wages 7.50 for a net income of 
35.5 dollars an hour. – I guess that’s not too bad. Except when you factor in all the other costs. Weeding, 
watering, planting, etc. etc. They are probably not making too much.
	After that, we came back, and went shopping for Lee’s dinner party. She was making Pizza, Salad, 
and Strawberry Shortcake from the fresh strawberries we picked that day. I got some groceries myself. 
Cold Cuts, mustard, milk, Cliff bars. I got a killer deal for a case of cliff bars for 10 dollars at the Farmers 
Co – op. It was cash only, but a case is like 12 bars. They normally sell at wegmans for like 2.50 a bar, or 
something. I saved 20 bucks on the case. I also bought a pot to cook stuff in, and my Staple Ramen 
noodles.
	So, tomorrow, I go out on the road for the Wisconsin – Wyoming leg. It should take me two or 
three days to get to Yellowstone National Park. Then I am going to spend a couple days there before I head 
up to Libby Montana to see Kristen. I am kind of nervous, and kind of excited at the same time. It has made 
me soft, and lazy to stay with people. 
	When we were shopping, we pretended like we were a hick couple in line, with comment’s like “I 
tell you what Lee – Ann”, and “Roy, I told you not to be telling stories.” The woman in front of us in line 
looked back and had a funny look on her face. I’m not sure if she thought we were serious or not. I 
wouldn’t be surprised if some people in the store actually did speak in that manner.  The place definitely 
was Midwestern. I don’t like the term Midwestern to refer to Madison. It’s kind of North Mid Western. 
Mid Western reminds me of Arkansas, or Kentucky or something. 
	The grocery store was called Woodmans, not Wegmans. They took only cash, and not plastic, 
which I thought was interesting. It was pretty big, maybe the size of a Wegman’s but not the same. I didn’t 
see a bulk food section, nor did they have a pharmacy / photo development area / the deli sucked /  no 
movie rental place either.
	I took several pictures of the checkout guy in line, and made him laugh a little. “I’m not happy to 
be working today.” “I’d rather be home.” He said. Some day he will grow up to be something else. 
	We went rock climbing at “Boulder’s” rock gym in Madison tonight. It was fun, but I was pretty 
beat. I am falling asleep now too. Lee and I went with Sonya and Dave (Sonya’s boyfriend). He was pretty 
good. Maybe a little stronger than I. I got zero arm strength, but good balance and finger strength. 
	Sonya gave me the numbers of some of her friends who live in the Fairbanks area. I will call them 
when I get closer and give them a ring. Lee said she has a friend who lives in Vancouver too. I think she 
said she would give me her number to give her a ring when I get up there. 
	Lee’s roomates, and friends are all very learned. They are either all going to school, or doing 
research, or finishing there masters degrees. Briana Calore is going back to medical school, and is super 
smart and quirky. Sonya is also super smart, going to school, and working. Dave is a Chemical Physicist, 
both of Lee’s friends who are both named Amy are in their Ph’d programs in the Medical field. 
	I felt kind of less than intelligent around them. But, I don’t really mind too much. Everyone has 
their specific skills. Briana has a bunny named “Sunshine Garcia”, who’s birthday is the day Jerry Garcia 
died. I am going to bed. 


Thursday, June 21, 2001 Some Rest Stop, right over the South Dakota Border from Minnesota. (About 10 
miles outside Souix Falls, SD)

The sun is setting, NPR is on the radio, I am sitting in the back seat of my 1997 Subaru Legacy Outback, 
looking at the screen of my Micron Transport NX perched on top of my Coleman plug in cooler in the front 
seat, and all is right in the world. 
	I had a surprisingly good day. I kind of dreaded leaving Madison, because it is of course scary to 
go back out in the wild, where you don’t know where you are going to sleep. I didn’t leave yesterday, 
because I spent some time on the computer doing things online, and that turned into more time, and then it 
was 3:30, and Lee got home from work. So, I decided to stay another day in Madison. 
	I reached my goal today though, which was to make it to South Dakota, and Souix Falls. I plan on 
finishing this journal entry, and heading into town, and hopefully to find a suburb somewhere outside of 
town, where I can bed down for the night. I just re-packed the car, and put some unnecessaries in my bug 
splattered car pod. (I am so glad I got this thing. My bike would have been trashed without it. Plus it adds 
17 cubic feet of space to my ride. – More than adequate me thinks)
	I got an e-mail from the Mt. Ranier climbing folks on Wednesday. They had an opening on the 
July 17th – 18th summit climb. By the time I called them, it had been taken. ? I gave them all my contact 
information and such, and told them that if an opening comes up in the future for those dates, just bill me. I 
don’t want to miss out on it again. I am pretty hopeful though, because the reservation chick said that often 
times, people don’t pass the “pre climb”, so if I call, maybe I will be able to get in. Plus, there are still a few 
weeks before that climb.
	Yesterday, should I talk about that first, or today. I guess chronologically correctness has it’s 
place. So, I woke up with the intention of leaving in the morning, but got stuck with the computer being 
online, and such, and ended up staying. Lee asked me if I was interested in seeing “Lucinda Williams.” I 
thought it would be a local bar band, because I had never heard of her before, and grunted assertion.
	It turns out it was a regular concert at the locally restored concert hall on State Street in Madison. 
Tickets were 27.50 DOS, and the opening act was “Kasey Chambers”, another artist whom I had not heard 
of. First allow me an aside, and mention the word of yesterday. It was estrogen. As in, a little too much of 
it. 
	Anyway, Lee and I grabbed some sandwiches from the local deli / grill called Radical Rye. I put 
the order in, while Lee grabbed the tickets. I got a veggie burger. Quite Tasty! Then we walked down to the 
U of W Madison campus’ outstanding eating and gathering establishment, the Terrace. This was a nice 
open air venue that had various small bands and such playing often. Last night was open mike night, but we 
missed it because of the concert. I said, “Too Bad.” Lee responded, “No, that’s good.” Apparently the open 
mikers leave a little to be desired. 
	Then we met and talked with Lee’s friend, Molly I believe who is working towards becoming a 
“Dula.” – I am not sure about the spelling on this, but I think it’s right. A dula is a person who assists in 
home birthings. A Dula is a person, man or woman who has seen a lot of child births, and helps the 
midwife with whatever she needs through the ceremony. (I think) She is also there for moral, and breathing 
support of the expecting mother. Often times, this is unmarried teens. So that was my first womanly 
experience, listening and learning about what it takes to become a Dula. It was very interesting. Oh, we ate 
our food on the Terrace which overlooks Lake Monona, and drank some local beer, and then had ice cream. 
I had Cookies and Cream. – Ice cream and beer. Ain’t nothin better in the world.
	Then Molly departed, and Lee and I trekked up to the Orphieum, to check out the show. It was 
very crowded, and Lee and I ended up sitting high in the balcony next to two very affectionate Lesbians. 
One of whom I would refer to as good looking.  Lee and I had a whole conversation about what the 
definition of Hot, and Beautiful were. I didn’t explain it very well, because I still had a stoopid head from 
the beer. 
	So, I really liked Kasey Chambers. #1, she was hot, and I’m not sure about beautiful, but I would 
wager, she is on her way. She was from Austraila, and her mom, father, and brother were all on tour with 
her, and helped her out in one capacity or another. Mom did the promotional stuff, Dad was in the band, 
played keyboards, and bass I think. Brother produced the show, and also played guitar. 
	I liked her last song the best. It was called “We’re all gonna die someday.” “Momma’s on the pill, 
daddy’s over the hill, and were all gonna die someday…” went the chorus. It was upbeat, and mostly 
countryish. Both Kasey Chambers, and Lucinda Williams were both kind of Country, and reminded me of 
what I think a Faith Hill / Lilith Fair concert might be like. 
	I liked Kasey Chambers better, because I think she had more stage presence than Lucinda. She 
danced around a lot, talked and joked with the audience. She also seemed “fresher”, like she wasn’t jaded 
by stardom yet. Kind of like a Division 1 college basketball or football game, where the players cry if they 
lose, and go nuts if they win. Lucinda, while more popular, and musically a little more seasoned, seemed a 
little jaded by the stardom thing, even though I really hadn’t heard of her.  Her stage signature, is her quite 
folded cowboy hat that she wore low, and over her eyes, so you couldn’t really see her face. Plus she was a 
blonde, while Kasey had short brunette hair, and big cans. – Just my type.
	So, 4 hours later, the concert was over. The two shows, plus the lesbians were my second, third 
and fourth doses of estrogen. I actually left before the end of her second encore. I was ready to leave before 
the end of the first set, but grinned and bore as much as I could. And, of course, I got a little lost on the way 
home, so ended up getting in a little after Lee.
	Then Sonya and Dave, who had just come back from jogging joined Lee and I in the living room 
to discuss college and Educational reform. – Another sidebar. I friggen love it here. Every one of Lee’s 
roomates is in college, or doing post bachelor’s degree work. I love discussing intellectual things, and I 
really miss college. I must go back. Sonya works in Education Policy research, and is helping student’s 
from other cultures who have a tough time adjusting to the educational methods of the White, Middle Class 
American post high school education system. Since this is her work, she is quite passionate about it. 
	My, and Dave’s point’s were that if a student can’t hack the grading system, then tough. Kind of a 
“sink or swim / Social Darwinism” type of idea. Sonya felt strongly that this was alienating members of 
other cultures, who for cultural and social reasons have a tough time in school. She felt that there should be 
special means put in place to help these people, or we risk loosing a lot of potentially excellent students. 
She made an excellent point, and I saw it. She didn’t have an answer, nor did I, but I saw where she was 
coming from. Dave on the other hand, didn’t see it as clearly as I did. When Lee noticed that this discussion 
would continue in a heated manner, she said “I’m going to bed.” I stayed for a bit, then worked on the ‘pute 
a bit. Dave and Son adjourned to Sonya’s room, for further “discussion”. Fifth dose of estrogen. 
	Then of course, while this was going on, Briana  was finishing a less than pleasant conversation 
with her boyfriend. Then while I was computing, she came into the living room, as did Lee who wanted to 
ask about creating e-mail distribution lists. Lee, Bri, and I kind of talked about her situation. I remembered 
how to ask open ended questions. It’s good to remember skills like that. Anyway, that was the final dose. I 
went to bed feeling like a woman.
	So, today. I drove all day. I stopped in Trembleau, WI and went mountain biking for about 6 
miles, and grabbed a shower afterwards. It took me slightly off route, but I think things ended up fine. Plus 
it was great exercise. A couple of the small hills kicked my ass. Not my legs of course, but my wind. I 
don’t have any. I have been a slug for too long. Hopefully not by the end of summer though.
	I figured out the gas mileage. I never knew how to do it before. I always thought people estimated 
how much gas they put in there tanks, and figured it out that way. It never occurred to me to look at the gas 
tank, and see from that how much I was putting in. My gas mileage really varies with the driving 
conditions. The leg from Chicago to Wisconsin I was getting about 29 miles / gallon (I was driving about 
73 / 75 mph.) This was outstanding, and definitely the best mileage I was getting. Today though, the 
Minnesota leg was horrible. The speed limit is 70, so I was going about 78, and the wind was heavy, so I 
was getting about 21 mpg. Both better than the 17 mpg I thought I was getting before. So, I am happy about 
that. 
Anyway, I drove for most of the day. I didn’t really get too sick of it. I went to one of the best rest 
stops I have ever been to. It was green plush grass, and away from the highway. I walked around, and spent 
about 20 minutes breathing and stretching on the lawn. It was called the Des Moines River Rest Area in 
Minnesota. It definitely got high rankings, because it had three recycle bins too. I took a picture.
	My first stop was Sparta, WI (The bike trails capital of the world.) That’s where I got the info 
about the park that I mountain biked near Trembleau.  I took some pictures of this old biker statue. A guy 
named Mark took one of me also, and I returned the favor for him and his family who wanted there 
Christmass picture done using the big biker as a backdrop. I talked with them for a while. They were there 
biking with there two children. 
	Mark was thrilled about my camera, when I showed him you could review the pictures as you took 
them. I also showed him how to load 35mm film in his camera. He said “I’m not too mechanically 
inclined.” I believed it. He seemed so excited to meet someone who had a camera, let alone someone who 
knew a little about photography. I wonder what his job was. His wife Becky was nice too, and so where 
their kids. 
	A couple last things then I will say goodbye. Caroll O’connor from “All in the family” and blues 
legened John Lee Hooker both died today. Sad.  Mileage of the car passing the Minnesota state line from 
Illionos was 94311, and passing the South Dakota state line from Minnesota was 94578.
	Last thing. I mentioned to Sonya earlier in the day yesterday another thought I had. Well, as many 
of you know, animals in the wild are most often times on the brink of starvation. This makes them hungry 
for life, and always trying to take advantage of every opportunity that life affords them, so that they can 
stay alive. Whereas a housepet, like a cat can get fat, lazy, and passive. A wild cat, could not afford to be 
this way. 1, because there is not a bountiful supply of food in the wild, and 2, because if it had to survive on 
it’s own, it would most likely be eaten by a member of another species higher in the food chain if it was fat 
or slow. 
	I equate this to being out on the road. When I am staying with someone, I get lazy, and used to 
things such as showers, beds, internet access, and television. On the road, I am a little closer to the things 
that are more important such as food clothing, and shelter. I like this. I think another step in this direction 
would be to try and live on your own in the wild for a while. 
	This might be a little too much for me, but you never know. Anyway, enough for the ramblings of 
Ryan. Off to find somewhere to sleep. 


Friday June 22nd Somewhere beyond boundaries of Badlands national Park, in my tent. (Copied from 
written journal on July 2nd.

	Believe it or not I am writing with pen and paper. I will transcribe this bad boy later. Backcountry 
camping in Badlands consists of Nothing. All you have to do is go ½ mile off the road so nobody can see 
you. You can park anywhere and do this. Very Cool. 
	So, I left my car at the Ranger Station and started hiking. I came to the boundary of the park 
(marked by a barbed wire fence) + continued on for about ½ mile. There are crickets chirping everwhere 
and it sounds wonderful. Today I woke up in the rest stop, stopped in the town with the “Corn Palace”, 
(Mitchell South Dakota) and took some video. 
	I met Paul and Christopher who I talked with later at a Rest Stop. Paul was driving to Boulder 
with hie son to enter a Frisbee competition. There were 7 events Distance, Accuracy, Disc Golf, “Disc 
Tennis”, an obstacle course, and a couple other I can’t recall.
	I talked with them at a rest stop that was also a stop for Lewis and Clark on their little trip. They 
had a bunch of very vegetableish food. Tofu, BBQ Hommus, and a bunch of other veggies. I don’t know if 
they chose to be vegeteraians or not. From the looks of there diet, they could have been. – They were from 
Rochester. I also met Jonothan Williams who recommended a bunch of books and authors for me. He 
worked in a bookstore in Geneseo. Funny huh?
	The corn palace was interesting. So was the town of Mitchell! It had a bunch of large plastic 
figures throughout the town. I videod them while driving through. I also became fanatical about taking 
pictures of the “Wall Drug” signs all throughout South Dakota. There were litterally hundreds of them for 
the entire state of South Dakota, and possibly into Minnesota.
	I took a nature “Praire hike” with one of the Park Rangers. She and three other touristy people 
took the hike. The one younger girl found a really cool fossil. I wanted to pick it up, but couldn’t because 
the Ranger was there. We also ate Scarlett Maglabelows or something. They tasted and had a consistency 
of chewing gum. 
	It is incredible out here. I have no fly on the tent, so I hope it doesn’t get too cold tonight. I am 
trying to ween myself off the tent, and just lay on the ground, I also have the doors open, so I can fee the 
breeze. I love the sounds, they are awesome. 
--
	That was all I wrote when I was in the tent. Another thing that was interesting was when I was 
hiking through the Badlands to get to this place, all of the sudden I looked up and three large mammals 
were coming right for me. I believe it was an antelope, with it’s two young. The adult, saw me, as I stood 
solid on the ground, and went around me. The two calves hopped within about two feet of me, and kept on 
going. They made neat sounds when they went. Hop, Hop, Hop…
	Also, the smell of the Praire was incredible. The feeling I had sleeping in the tent that night was 
incredible. It was perhaps the best feeling I have had on this trip so far. Totally alone, but surrounded by 
life, stars, wind, and earth. I could get used to that. 
	 


June 23rd 9:23, Mountain Time, Frank’s Rock Climbing Gym near Devil’s Tower Wyoming.

	Again, exhausted. I did a lot today. I woke up in the Badlands, and had a wonderful rest in the 
praire. I can understand how cowboy’s and others get used to sleeping out underneath the starts with no tent 
and such. It is quite nice on the praire. My sleep wasn’t really disturbed at all. The wind didn’t really bother 
me, in fact, I liked it a lot. It was cool, sweet, and nice. 
	I woke up around 5:30AM or so, broke down camp, and headed back to my car. On the way back, 
I past another guy who was camping out in the wilderness. I spent about an hour or so eating breakfast and 
re-organizing the car, and then was on my way. 
	I stopped by some of the other touristy vista sites in Badlands, but the most fun was the “Big Pig 
Dig.” This was an Archeological dig that has been going on since 1993. There were four people who were 
digging, and a park ranger who was running interference with the tourists. Some of the folks who were 
doing the dig were volunteers, and some of them were Palentologists. One was a cute girl who was jaded 
by the tourists, and I could tell wasn’t too psyched to be there. 
	Then I ate lunch, and headed to wall to visit the famous Wall Drug, whose advertisiments are all 
over the state of South Dakota. The place was a glorified tourist trap. It did have a Tyrannasaurus Rex 
though. I got a lemonade for 1.19$ It was pretty good. 
	Then I drove to Sturgis, and to the Harley Davidson for some souviners. I bought a couple 
stickers, and a tee shirt. I’m not sure who I bought the tee shirt for, but what the hell. 
	After Sturgis, and a long car drive, I finally made it to Devils Tower National Monument. I 
hooked up with a couple guys who were climbing, and asked them what there recommendations about 
guided tours were. They happened to be driving to a guides house (Frank) which is where I am now. 
Frank’s not here, he is in some town somewhere playing piano. The people who were at Frank’s house 
which is a cabin which has an incredible view of the tower, were Gene, Yob (from Holland, 6’5”, he didn’t 
remind me of the Dutch people we met in Aruba), Kristen, and Chuck. 
	I ate some of the beef stew that they had, since Chuck offered it too me. It was tasty. Then we all 
sat down and watched Pulp Fiction. I kind of should have been typing while this was going on, but I kind of 
felt like they were letting me stay, I should at least kind of hang out, and socialize a little bit. 
	Anyway, Frank is going to get home in about a half hour, and I will go in to meet him. He will 
decide who climbs tomorrow, and who leads, etc. Hopefully, he end’s up taking someone to the top. 
Including me. Oh, I left Lee and company a thank you note at there house. It read:
Lee, thanks for the bed space. – Of course for letting me crash at her house.
Bri, thanks for the desk space. – Of course for letting me use her desk.
Son + Dave, thanks for the wall space.  – For taking me climbing.
Bob, thanks for the floor space.  – For letting me keep my cooler in the kitchen. 



June 24th(25th) 2001, Devils Tower Lodge Climbing Gym.

Sorry Mom. 
CLIMBERS PAY ATTENTION TO THIS ONE!!
	Well, on Saturday during the day, I called a couple people while I was in places that had cell 
coverage. – Aside, Verizon says they have coverage nationally. Nobody has coverage nationally, except for 
maybe one of those satellite phones. There have been several places out west. – Yes, I am out west now, 
maybe not pacific time zone, but I feel like I am out west. The people feel like it, and it smells very much 
like it. 
	Woodsy, kind of pine treeish. It makes me nostalgic for the Pacific Northwest. I can’t believe that 
smell can bring back such a feeling, such a sense of connectedness, that it really makes you smile for no 
reason at all. Well, the woods around here do it for me. I love the smell, and I love the feeling that comes 
along with it.
	Anyway, I was talking with Mom, and I was mentioning to her that I was going to try and get in 
with a group while in Seattle, and try to climb Mount Rainer. Earlier in the conversation, I had mentioned 
that I was on my way to Devil’s Tower. She said “Your not going to climb that are you?” I said, “Oh no, of 
course not.” At the time, it never occurred to me that people climb Devil’s tower, nor did I think about 
climbing it myself, so when I said what I said, I had no intention of climbing it. 
	However, her mentioning it, kind of put the thought in my head, and as luck would have it, I got 
the opportunity to climb it. Here is the story. 
	As I was driving to the Monument, I passed a place that advertised guided climbs to the top of the 
tower. I thought about stopping, and felt a tug, but I think it was an internal tug, not an external tug. Some 
of you may be familiar with my philosophies on those. I passed by, and continued on down towards the 
monument.
	So, I pulled into the front gate of the National Monument, these are much like National Parks, in 
fact, I think treated identically. Maybe they are the red headed stepchild of the Department of Agriculture. 
No, that would be Buearu of Land Management, or National Forest, maybe “Army Corps of engineers” 
landmark. – Who knows. Anyway, I saw Devils Tower in the distance, and I was very impressed. This was 
definitely something that looked odd, but was comprehendible. Some of you know my theory on 
perspective, and frame of reference for looking at beautiful things. 
	Since I had purchased a 50 dollar National Park pass at Badlands N.P. I showed my card, and 
drove on into the park. I took the windy 3 mile or so unpaved road to the visitors center. They were doing 
construction on the road most of the way up, and there were several delays. The closer I got, the bigger and 
bigger the tower was. Eventually I got to the visitor center, where there was a path up to the tower. It was 
huge!
	The tower was certainly neat, and very large. It looked much bigger the closer and closer I got. 
Another thought crossed my mind. I remembered something the Park Ranger in Badlands N.P. said to me, 
when I mentioned that I was going to Devil’s Tower. She said “That’s cool, they interpret Rock Climbing 
there.” “Interpret?” I asked. – She said “Kind of like presenting the subject to the common person.” She 
had just interpreted the Praire, on the Prarie walk, and at Devil’s Tower, they interpret Rock Climbing.
	As I parked the car, my main focus was on finding out about Back Country passes, for a free 
night’s sleep. The Ranger in the Information Center, although very smily, and of pleasant demeanor. I 
actually think he was a Native Lakota Indian. Didn’t know, he said something like “I’m not educated in 
that area.” – “Who would I talk with that would know more about that?” – “The Park Security Ranger, 
would know more about that, and he is out on the veranda.” – I walked outside, and looked for him. He 
wasn’t in my field of vision, so I started walking towards the tower. As I passed one of the typical National 
Park Kiosk’s, I noticed that one had pictures of a climber, and the history of climbing around the tower. It 
said something like “Climbing is an important part of the history of the tower.” It kind of sat in my head, 
but in the back somewhere, like something you see in your peripheral vision. It registers, but not with the 
part that put’s it in your main train of thought. I was still thinking about finding the Security Ranger, and I 
couldn’t find him, so I walked up to the tower, and decided to take the 1.3 mile hike around it. 
	I went swiftly as I usually do on these sort of hikes.  I feel like I kind of have an agenda, to get to 
the end. When it’s a hike for a considerable distance, this is different, because I know that the journey is 
half the fun. But when the journey is short as it was on this hike, then I just want to get to the end. Halfway 
around the loop, I looked up at one section of the tower, that a bunch of people were pointing at, and 
noticed a couple small “Flowers” that seemed to be moving up the side of the large formation of igneous 
rock. These were climbers.
	As I finished the loop, I happened on two obvious climbers who were hiking back to their car. “I 
missed that one section, because I think it was a lie back, and I tried to muscle straight up it.” Said one to 
the other. I followed them pretty close, and finally found an opportunity to butt into their conversation. 
	“Did you guys make it to the top?” I asked. “No, we were just play climbing today” went the 
response. “I was wondering about climbing it, and I saw one of those guide places on the road in, do you 
guys know anything about them?” I questioned. – “You want a guide?” was there mutual response. “We are 
going to see one right now.” – This started a long string of events that eventually took me to the top of 
Devils Tower. Ralph and Joe, I think were there names. We exchanged pleasantries, and I explained that if 
possible, I would like to climb the tower. 
	They told me that the Tower is a Religious symbol for the Lakota Indians, and the month of June 
has been established as a holy month for the Lakota because of the Summer Solstice. Because of this, the 
park recommends that people don’t climb the tower during the month of June. This is of course voluntary, 
and not a law. I would have much rather climbed the tower during a month that wasn’t sacred to the 
Lakota, or another Native American tribe, but it wasn’t in the cards. 
	They said to follow them, to Frank’s lodge, ”His backyard has a view of the Tower” they 
explained. They had a green Subaru Outback, and I followed them in my White Outback to Frank’s place. 
In order to get to his House / Lodge / Climbing Gym / Retreat / Whatever, you have to drive into the park. 
Even though his property is not on the park boundaries. Weird huh? Anyway, I followed them down the 
access road a bit, and then we took a right turn and another right, and pulled up to a cabin whose backyard 
had a wonderful view of Devil’s Tower.
	It turns out that these guys were personal friends of Frank Sherman, who had been climbing this 
tower since the 1970’s. He was a Park Ranger at Devils Tower for about 10 years also. Frank was now in 
his 50’s, but still a very impressive climber. – I didn’t actually meet him until after I climbed the tower. 
Anyway, Frank started a guide service last year called Devil’s Tower Lodge. They tell me that they have a 
web site if anyone is interested. www.devilstowerlodge.com  
Frank had another guide working for him by the name of Gene. Gene answered the door and 
greeted Ralph and Joe. They talked for a while, then went into the living room to talk with Jaap, Chuck, 
and Katie who were watching Pulp Fiction. I then talked with Gene a little while, and explained to him 
what I wanted to do. I said “I would basically like to summit the tower tomorrow if possible, however, I 
could be tempted to wait until Monday if necessary.” It was about 6:00PM Saturday at this time. He didn’t 
seem too confident, and said “We are really busy lately. I just took two women up the tower today, and I 
am big time whooped.” I was empathetic, he looked a little whooped. But after that, he said “We’ll work 
something out.” I said “Cool!”
Then he asked, “where are you staying?” “Actually, I was going to ask you where some good 
spot’s on national forest land that I could stay for free?” I questioned. He asked, “Are you camping?” I said 
“Yup”. “You can tent on the front lawn… No actually I got something better. I’ll show you.” he said. I 
followed him down the driveway a little, and he showed me there own personal Rock Gym. “This is 
awesome!” I said. He was like “Yea, isn’t it cool!” Hell yea, it is…” I said.
The walls were gritty with texture, and had sparse, but well placed features. Two of the walls were 
straight up and down, and the third was about a 15% overhang. There was gear strewn throughout the 
place, and several plastic cups in strategically placed areas that were doubling as spittoons or ash trays. 
Gene did both. The other walls were large full length mirrors. There was also, a treadmill, and several free 
weights. This place doubled as a training facility for the client’s of Devils Tower Lodge, and it became my 
bed for the next two days. 
I went back inside with Gene, where he fed me a hearty bean / beef / vegetable stew. I then met 
the rest of the folks that were there, and hung out with the gang for a bit. Chuck was a ranger, who also 
climbed with them quite often. Katie was chuck’s girlfriend who was getting her Masters Degree, and who, 
like Chuck, had been sick with the flu for the last couple weeks, and hadn’t been climbing recently. Then 
there was Jaap Pierse from Holland. Jaap spoke pretty good English, and was on his 60 day vacation or the 
summer. 
I’m not sure if many of you are aware, but it is standard for folks in many parts of Europe to have 
30 to 60 days off paid per year. Jaap was taking advantage of his by staying with Frank, and climbing 
Devil’s Tower, in Missoula, in the Black Hills, and other places around the area. 
We all kind of hung out, and watched Pulp Fiction. I kind of felt awkward, not knowing these 
people, and not really having a good venue to talk with them. It’s tough when you hang out with new 
people, and you end up doing something that doesn’t really promote conversation, like watching a flick. 
But, there were parts of the movie where I talked with them a little bit, and said, “I love this part”, and “Did 
you notice Marcells Wallace’s Band Aid on the back of his head. I heard there are things in the Bible about 
if you sell your soul to the Devil, he takes it from the base of your neck.” This is all stuff I had heard while 
in college, when the movie was so popular. 
So, we talked for a bit, and eventually, exhausted I went to bed. It was about 9:00PM, and Gene 
said that Frank was going to be back around 10:30PM. I wanted to meet him, and agreed that I would come 
in around that time to see if he came back. He was at a local bar playing the Piano. I struggled to write a 
journal for an hour and ½, but didn’t get very far. I looked at some pictures instead. Around 10:30, I went 
back inside, Gene wasn’t there, and neither was Frank. Jaap was up watching another movie. I jawed with 
him a bit, and went to bed.
The next morning, Gene came in around 5:30AM, and said. “Would you be interested in going to 
the top of Devil’s Tower today with another woman who want’s to climb it?” he said. I asked  “How much 
would that cost?” “I would only charge you $150.” I thought that sounded reasonable, and agreed. We 
talked a little about how it would work, and he said, “Whenever you are ready, we have oatmeal inside. “
It ended up that Myself, Jaap, Emily, and Gene would ascend the tower together. We were going 
to take the route called “Durance” up to the top of the tower.” Durance was only rated a 5.6 – 5.7, but 
Emily was not that experienced, and she was the principal customer. So, I ate breakfast, and got my gear 
together. It ended up that I wouldn’t need any of my pro, quick draw’s or slings, because Gene had pretty 
much everything we needed, but I brought some of it anyway. Another kind of bummer about the climb 
was that, each of us was hard tied in, and we kind of had to stay in that order going up the wall. So, I didn’t 
get to lead any of the pitches, even though I certainly could have. I was top belayed for each pitch, and it 
was kind of boring after a while. 
In some sections, I went off route, to try and make the climb more challenging. The established 
route that Gene set, mostly followed the cracks between the Igneous spikes that jutted out of the ground. 
Those were the easiest, and the routes that all of the other’s took. 
There were approximately 10 total pitches up the 875 foot climb. To make things a little faster, 
and more efficient, Gene ran together some of the pitches. He ran out the first two, then the next three, then 
the next two, couldn’t run out the third because of rope drag, so did that pitch alone, then ran together the 
last two. The first two pitches were the most difficult, and I was actually breathing pretty hard when, I got 
to the top. There were many factors causing this, the main being that each time I climb outdoors for the first 
time, I get a little edgy about not wanting to take a fall, plus I didn’t really know these guys too well, and 
didn’t want to test there belay skills. Emily had taken a couple falls on the second pitch, and they held her 
fine. I guess just nerves. 
Anyway, I definitely wasn’t breathing correctly, and being efficient with my movements. The two 
pitches together were about 140 feet or so, so it was a long sustained climb. The first was like a 5.7, and the 
second was a long 5.8. When I got to the top of the small ledge, and looked to my left I was a little 
concerned about the height.  Even though I anchored in, as soon as I got to the top, before I was off belay, I 
kept going back to test it, and touching the anchor to make sure it was in place. I said to myself, “I am 
anchored in. I am anchored in.” It kind of became a mantra, until I got used to the height. 
Since we had kind of done a grade 5 “scamper”, as Bob Hograff likes to call it, up to the base, we 
had gone several hundred feet up the boulder field next to the start of our climb. Next to the field on the 
side that we were now adjacent to, there was a much smaller boulder field, and it stopped 100 feet or so 
before the one that we ascended to get to our base for our first tie in. So, at this point, I was sitting on a 
ledge that was about 320 feet straight down. “I am anchored in, I am anchored in…” I kept looking at the 
anchor, and making sure my carbiner was locked. I touched it repeatedly, and followed the anchor from the 
peton in the side of the wall to my harness. 
Over and over I traced the anchor, and touched the “doubled back” sides of my harness, as I had done 100’s 
of times prior to belaying someone, or being belayed in the gym or outside. It kind of becomes habit. I was 
now retracing these steps as I had done several times before. Doubled back, Doubled Back, locked off, tied 
in. Doubled Back, Doubled Back, locked off, tied in. “I am anchored in, I am anchored in.” 
I think another thing that kind of helped me get over the first woosy feeling that I had on the ledge, 
was that I was so out of breath from the second pitch, that I didn’t really have any energy to devote to being 
scared. So, I just kind of said “I am anchored in”, a bunch more times, and eventually got over it, and 
started to enjoy the view. 
About that time, it was my turn to head up the third, fourth, and fifth pitches. These were infinitely 
easier, and I remembered all the things that I forgot on the first two pitches, and made it up to the rest of the 
group very quickly, without breaking a sweat. That’s when I started to be a little bored. But, being as how I 
was now 500 feet off the ground, I found that the view was incredible, and really enjoyed it. Jaap and 
Emily were good company. Emily was a bus driver in Portland Oregon. She was doing all the things she 
wanted to do as a kid now as an adult. She was an avid skydiver, and enjoyed competing in Marathon’s 
where she walked instead of ran. 
Jaap was a Rock Climbing instructor / and driving instructor in Holland. So, he had many 
interesting stories. He was a little difficult to understand at times, and I agreed with him on occasion to 
make him feel good even though I didn’t understand him. Gene was up the next pitch as soon as I made it 
up the previous, so I didn’t really talk with him that much, until we got to the top. 
The third and fourth sections, were a breeze, and these are the spots where I started “face 
climbing” to try and make the routes more difficult. Each time I did the face climb’s I took things slow and 
steady, and probably made the routes into strong 5.8’s at least. Then before I knew it, we were at the 
summit. 
We had started climbing up the boulder field around 8:00AM, and we summited around 3:00PM. 
The rock was hot to the touch most of the way up, but on top, it was scorching. Since the top of the tower 
faces directly into the sun 80% of the day, most of the rocks usually get baked pretty well done. I couldn’t 
sit on them without putting something down that I brought with me. The temperature at the base when we 
left was about 90, and was supposed to get into the 100’s. It was a good thing that it didn’t, otherwise we 
would have been much more scorched than we were. 
I wore my camelback for the climb. I carried a jacket, two bananas, a pbj sandwich, a couple  cliff 
bars, sunscreen, and my camera, plus a gallon of water. It turns out that I really didn’t need the jacket, but 
the weather man said there was a chance of showers, and had it started raining, I really would have needed 
it. We hung out on the top for about 30 minutes, and signed the “Summit Log”. There is a leather bound 
notebook that was inside of a metal canister, that contained notes from everyone who recently summited 
the Tower. It was fun to read everyone elses entries, but much more fun to write my own. We were the only 
group that made it up the tower on Sunday, and the only 4 people to sign the book that day. It was quite a 
thrill. On top, you could see for ever. In the distance, things just became hazy.
For the descent down, Jaap rappeled down first, followed by me, then Emily. Rappeling down the 
face of an 875 foot cliff is quite another thrill. Because of the lengths that we were rappeling, we tied two 
ropes together to make a figure 8 follow through, and took those down in four separate sections. I used my 
ATC for a rappel device, so I didn’t go super fast, but I was much more secure than if I had used one length 
of rope, instead of two. 
At the end of the first rappel, after I anchored in at the ledge, I went to unhook my ATC from the 
rope, and it accidentally touched the inside of my arm. I got a first degree burn for my carelessness. I was 
much more careful after that when removing my ATC from the rope after each rappel. 
For the last rappel past the base where we started from, the rope was not long enough to rappel all 
the way to the bottom. We had to stop short about 10 feet, and down climb the rest of it. It wasn’t a big 
deal, but after all day on the Tower, we were all spent, so this is when accidents happen, and it is important 
to be very alert. I was, and nothing happened bad to me or anyone else. We brought about 4 gallons of 
water with us, and went through it all. There was a little sip left in a pack that Jaap left at base camp which 
he retrieved before heading to the bottom. I had a little sip of it, and it was hot. Yumm! Not. 
We hiked back to our cars, and of course were heros for every tourist that we saw. “You guys 
made it to the top?” “What’s it like up there?” – I told them that “They just opened a MacDonalds on top, 
and we all had Strawberry milkshakes. We then signed out, drove back to Frank’s lodge, then to the only 
place nearby that actually had real milkshakes. The small lodge on the outside of the park. They were 
yummy. I had a ½ chocolate chip, ½ chocolate shake. Gene said the line from Pulp Fiction as he was eating 
his “MMMM, I don’t know if this is worth 5 dollars, but it’s pretty f**king good.” – We all had a good 
laugh. 
Then we went back to Frank’s place, and I got to meet him. He was an extremely energetic 50ish 
guy with crazy long white hair, and a very outgoing personality. Everything was “Great”, or “Outstanding” 
to him, and he was “Esctatic” that I was able to accompany Gene, Jaap and Emily to the top of the tower. 
He kind of reminded me of a nutty professor. Always head down, and thinking great thoughts, but kind of 
absent minded about what was going on right in front of him. 
I was impressed very much by one of the pictures on his wall. It was him crossing the finish line at 
a Marathon in under 3 hours. The time was 2:59:54, and the look on his face was incredible. His arms were 
in the air, and he was psyched beyond belief. I asked him about the photo, and he still seemed nostalgic 
about it. Kind of like it just happened yesterday, when in fact it happened more than 20 years earlier.
That night it thunderstormed, and I tried to get a shot of lightning hitting the tower. I wasn’t able 
to, but we saw some spectacular displays. I went out on the porch, and watched the tower as lightning 
struck around it, and the storm moved past us. It was a nice cleansing.
They fed me again which I was very greatful for. Chicken Onions, and String Beans, leftover stew, 
hotdogs, and muffins. It was very tasty. I showed everyone the pictures I had taken on the mountain. I 
didn’t get any action ones of anyone else, and I kind of felt a little selfish later. I didn’t get any of me 
either, so, I guess what comes around goes around. I was very greatful to everyone, and wrote Frank a note. 
I assured him that I would put the pic’s up on the web when I got a chance. (I had shown them a little 
slideshow on the laptop. ) 
I wanted badly to take a shower, but felt kind of awkward about it, since that usually equates to 85 
dollars a night for him. I asked Gene in an offhanded way, and he mentioned it to Frank. I didn’t push it, 
because I was really getting a free stay in there place anyway. So, I went without. It was my 5th day 
without, and as you can imagine, I was ripe, after climbing the tower. Next day, I felt fine though. 
But I definitely watched the dirt come off when I finally got my shower at the KOA. It was gross. 
So, that was that. My first “Big Wall” climb. – Oh, I have to mention, that most of the pro that Gene set 
was already bolted, I think he only set maybe a dozen or so pieces that weren’t peton’s or some other type 
of permant fixture in the wall. His rack consisted mostly of friends, and camelots. I wasn’t too impressed. 
He was a seasoned climber. He had made upwards of 30 ascents of Devil’s Tower, and was very careful, 
and cautious about many things on the way up and down. I wasn’t impressed by the lack of backups 
though. Bob and Mark have engrained super cautiousness in me, and I am greatful for it. Several times on 
the way up, Gene only used the one, two, or three anchors that were in the side of the wall. I believe that 
Bob and Mark would usually go for at least 3 bomber pieces of pro, for anchors when doing a climb of this 
caliber. Thanks guys, it’s good to see that these habit’s are good ones, - Oh, Mom, I wore a helmet all day 
long. 


	 
Monday June 25th, 2001 K.O.A., Cody, Wyoming

	When is camping not “Kamping”? It’s when you are at the KOA. I can’t believe this place. This is 
of course my first KOA experience, but let me enlighten you.
1. Basketball courts
2. Swimming Pool / Hot Tub / Wading Pool
3. Place’s to wash your dishes
4. Convience store
5. Video Game Room
6. 29.95 a night tent sites
7. “Kabins”
8. Free Pancake Breakfast
9. Nice staff.
And the number one reason camping out at a KOA is not camping out… 
10. Internet access.

Yes, my friends, I am sitting at a picnic bench outside the convience store, next to the b – ball court, 
where two kids are going head to head, and I am dialed in, and getting my e-mail. Ahh, roughing it is 
so tough…

I will come back later, I am going to go through my e-mail… - It’s taking a while, someone must have sent 
an attachment. Today, I drove from Devil’s Tower in Wyoming, where I stayed in a Rock Climbing Gym 
last night, Frank + Judy’s “Devil’s Tower Lodge.” 
I drove most of the day, and arrived in Cody around 5:00PM. I went straight to the Chamber of 
commerce, which was closed. My plan was to drive through Cody, and into the National Forest that lay 
between it and Yellowstone, where I was going to spend the night at least 800 feet off the main road for 
free in the woods. – However things didn’t work out that way. Most of the day driving, kind of took a little 
toll on me. Actually the driving didn’t take a toll on me, it was the “not seeing a town / or other people 
most of the day” that took the toll. The woman who was standing outside of the Chamber of commerce, 
said “That’s Wyoming for you”, in response to my “Cody’s the biggest thing I have seen in the last 4 
hours.” 
I guess that might have been a little fib, because I did stop in some town…. You guys, these kids 
playing hoops are cracking me up. This one little 9 year old, I know he is 9 because he announced it, he just 
said “I’m a freight train baby!”  Kid’s are great; especially prematurely cockey ones who don’t really have 
a clue. 
OK, another funny aside. My e-mail finally downloaded, and my Dad sent me a forward. No 
offense dad / others. But, most of the time when I get forwards from people who didn’t go to college when 
e-mail was around; who, didn’t go through the whole “30 forwards in per day, ranging from the top ten 
drunk sayings at <Insert Your College Here> to this is totally true, if you send this to 20 people now, you 
will get a personal check from Bill Gates for 100 dollars” phase, the stuff that those folks send now, has 
been around several times, and I have usually seen it before. That said, this one that Dad sent was a big 
winner. It’s attached below.  It’s probably been around before, and I doubt it’s true, but I was laughing out 
loud for about 2 minutes after I read the whole thing.  It’s similar to the Darwin Award’s stuff, enjoy. 
>Dear Sir :
>
>"I am writing in response to your request for additional information in
>Block 3 of the accident report form. I put "poor planning" as the cause of
>my accident. You asked for a fuller explanation and I trust the following
>details will be sufficient.
> >
> > I am a bricklayer by trade. On the day of the accident, I was working
>alone on the roof of a new six story building. When I completed my work, I
>found that I had some bricks left over which, when weighed later were found
>to be slightly in excess of 500 lbs. Rather than carry the bricks down by
>hand, I decided to lower them in a barrel by using a pulley, which was
>attached to the side of the building on the sixth floor. Securing the rope
>at ground level, I went up to the roof, swung the barrel out and loaded the
>bricks into it. Then I went down and untied the rope, holding it tightly to
>ensure a slow descent of the bricks.
>
>You will note in Block 11 of the accident report form that I weigh 135lbs.
>
>Due to my surprise at being jerked off the ground so suddenly, I lost my
>presence of mind and forgot to let go of the rope. Needless to say, I
>proceeded at a rapid rate up the side of the building. In the vicinity of
>the third floor, I met the barrel which was now proceeding downward at an
>equal, impressive speed. This explained the fractured skull, minor abrasions
>and the broken collar bone,as listed in section 3 of the accident report
>form. Slowed only slightly, I continued my rapid ascent, not stopping until
>the fingers of my right hand were two knuckles deep into the pulley.
>
>Fortunately by this time I had regained my presence of mind and was able to
>hold tightly to the rope, in spite of beginning to experience severe pain.
>At approximately the same time, however, the barrel of bricks hit the ground
>and the bottom fell out of the barrel.
>
>Now devoid of the weight of the bricks, that barrel weighed approximately 50
>lbs. I refer you again to my weight.
>
>As you can imagine, I began a rapid descent, down the side of the building.
>In the vicinity of the third floor, I met the barrel coming up. This
>accounts for the two fractured ankles, broken tooth and several lacerations
>of my legs and lower body.  Here my luck began to change slightly. The
>encounter with the barrel seemed to slow me enough to lessen my injuries
>when I fell into the pile of bricks and fortunately only three vertebrae
>were cracked.
>
>I am sorry to report, however, as I lay there on the pile of bricks, in
>pain, unable to move, I again lost my composure and presence of mind and let
>go of the rope and I lay there watching the empty barrel begin its journey.

OK, a couple other things to mention today…. 

I saw my first snowcapped mountains today. Very exciting. ? 
I stopped in some ho bunk town on the way to Cody, and walked around. Something told me to walk into 
city hall so I did, people asked me if I needed help, and I said, “No, something just told me to stop by city 
hall.” Then I proceeded on, and a thought came into my head. “I need my axe sharpened. “ 
	So, I stopped by a sporting goods store. Of course the woman came right up to me, and asked 
“Can I help you” – She totally thought I was going to steal something. I could feel her gaze the entire time I 
was in the store. It made me want to leave much earlier than I would have otherwise. I wonder if she knew 
that she was making me feel that way. I wonder if she makes other customers feel that way. I bet minorities 
feel type of thing much more than whites. Kind of sucks.
	Anyway, she didn’t have a knife / axe sharpening kit for me, so I walked on down the street, and 
into an Ace Hardware store. The guy there didn’t have one either, and even though I asked kind of rudely, 
he pointed me in the direction of a place that hooked me up.
	Down the street, was a place called Kraft Specialty Services. It was basically an auto body place. 
They did however, have a wet sander. If you ever do your own body work, use sandpaper dipped in water. 
It works awesome. So, I said to the kid behind the counter. “You guy’s got a belt sander here?” “Yup”, he 
responded. “I was talking with a guy at Ace Hardware who said that he used to work here, and said that you 
guys might be able to help me out.” I said. “OK”, was his response. I told him my problem, “I have this 
hatchet”, I had brought it in, “and it’s dull. Do you think you may be able to sharpen it up a little?”. He 
took, it and kind of nodded assent. 
	He walked over to his boss, and asked if he could sharpen it up on the sander. His boss mentioned 
something along the lines of “Sure”. Then I heard the sound that I had heard dozens of times as a child, in 
my basement where my Dad was sanding, sharpening, or shaping something. The kid was sanding away at 
my little hatchet. I think he was around 16 or 17, that age when a teenagers voice changes, and he starts 
being much more concerned about women, and being cool. 
	Well, he was pretty cool to me, because when he returned wiping my hatchet clean with his cloth, 
and grease, and dirt all over him, he looked proud as hell. Like a skilled craftsman, after months fashioning 
a samurai sword, bringing the final masterpiece to the owner and commissioner of the piece. When I took 
the hatchet, it was cool to the touch, a side affect of the wet sander, and definitely sharper than I had given 
it to him. 
	I said “Wow, looks great! What do I owe you?” “Nothing.” He said. Another young worked stood 
next to him. “Really?” I exclaimed. “Yea, It was just sharpening an axe”, he self deprecatingly said. 
“Thanks a lot I said.” I could tell that he and his friend wanted to talk and ask me questions, but with their 
youth, they didn’t feel comfortable, and manly enough to ask this weirdo with orange tinted glasses, and a 
bandana on his head what the hell he was doing in bo – bunk Wyoming. I said “I quit my job, and am 
driving to Alaska, so I need an axe.” was the only thing I could muster up. I guess it’s not only youth that 
causes us to be lacking in eloquence when placed in a semi-awkward situation. Anyway, they both grinned, 
and laughed a little, as I walked out the door. 
	I thought for a while as I was driving out of town, what a thrill for them it might be if I had told 
them my story. I was disappointed in myself that I didn’t. The funny thing about traveling alone, is that 
there is a lot more opportunities to take little risks with life and confrontations. Those are the things I love 
when I do take those risks, because things ALWAYS work out in a good way. Those are the things that 
people should do all the time. But 9 times out of 10 for one reason or another, they don’t. Well, I am trying.
	So, in Cody, the woman that was sitting outside the closed chamber of commerce, and her friend 
convinced me to stay the night -Primarily to check out the Buffalo Bill museum. I also wanted to get my oil 
changed. Which I did. Fairly reasonable price too. I went to “Majestic Lube” in downtown Cody. –Sound’s 
like a competitor for K-Y Jelly. Anyway, they did perhaps the fastest oil change that I have ever had. I 
almost thought it was too fast. But, I trust them, and I could tell, from the way that the Outback started up, 
and pulled out of the station that there was a fresh 4.7 quarts of Synthetic in her.
	Gas Mileage has been ok, I was surprised to get 120 miles out of a ½ tank in the hills coming from 
another po – dunk town in Wyoming. I also went grocery shopping today, and got some more supplies. I 
still don’t know if I like the cooler. It doesn’t keep things too cold, and I am beginning to think that the pain 
of having ice is worth the luxury of having stuff cold when you want it cold.
	Beautiful scenery coming from Devil’s Tower. Many beautiful vistas, and Red / Yellow / Green 
colored rocks and such. I went to the Buffalo Bill Museum for about 45 minutes tonight. My admission is 
good for two days, so I thought I would get an early start. The part I chose to check out tonight was the 
“Gun Museum.” – Kind of interesting, but I guess since I am not super excited about guns, it wasn’t a 
thriller. It is an extensive collection though. The one thing that interested me is the trophy head’s and such. 
I was amazed that there is actually a national ranking of the impressiveness of the trophy heads. It seems 
so, foreign to me. Kind of like another race / culture, that I have no clue about.  	 



June 26, 2001 Indian Creek Campground, Yellowstone National Park.

	Well, I have just finished the “Devil’s Tower Story”, 5 friggen pages, and 2.5 hours later. Umm, 
today… Today was a leisurely drive from the KOA in Cody Wyoming to Yellowstone N.P. I took the 
Northeast Route, because of a recommendation of a National Forest worker outside one of the po-dunk 
Wyoming towns that I past on my way. It turned out to be beautiful. I think everything is beautiful, when 
you get this far west though. Snowcapped peaks in every direction. Miles and miles of evergreen’s. 
Mountain Lakes and Rivers.  Incredible vistas. You name it, they got it. 
	The day started out with free Pancakes at the KOA. They used styrofoam plates. BAD BAD BAD! 
I used my own camp mess kit plate, and washed it afterwards. Then I broke down my site, and headed to 
the Buffalo Bill Museum. It was pretty cool. It wasn’t something that I went nuts for, because that type of 
art / etc. Doesn’t really interest me too much. I think my favorite part was the contemporary stuff. It was 
much more visually interesting than the historical stuff. 
	For example, there was a whole wing dedicated to firearms. Yee Haw! – What interested me here 
was not the guns, but the big game trophies.  I am surprised they did. But they did. The Native American 
stuff was interesting also, but seemed to lack a spirit. The Buffalo Bill and his “Rough Riders” memorbila 
didn’t interest me at all.  All in all I would give the museum a 7 out of 10. It had a lot of cool stuff, but I 
just don’t think I was in the mood. 
	They did however let you take pictures inside the museum which surprised me. But I joined in, 
and got a couple shots of the stuff that I thought was interesting in one way or another. 
	Then I drove to Yellowstone. I took Route 120 to 296 (The chief Joseph Scenic Byway). This took 
me into Montana, and then into Yellowstone. The road was long and twisty. At one of the passes, I noticed 
an access road leading up to a higher place than was accessible via paved road. I figured, since I have a car 
that is at least semi built for off road usage, that I would put it to the test. 
	It performed admirabally. On the way down there were a bunch of loose rocks, and I applied the 
brakes. At first I was concerned when they seemed to go to the floor, but then I realized that it was just the 
ABS, and that they were catching on the rocks. It just felt like they were going to the floor. --- Or did it…. I 
am still a little concerned about this car’s health. It seems to be working fine so far, but I don’t quite have 
that trust that I like to have. Maybe I will never Have it, I don’t know.
	Then I got into Yellowstone. 20 minutes into the park, I saw  Buffalo about 20 feet away. 45 
seconds after that I saw a herd of them. Another 10 minutes down the road, some female elk, then a little 
while later, a solo prong horn antelope. – Yes, my friends when you come to Yellowstone, expect to see 
wildlife. – If you haven’t ever made it out here, do yourself a favor, and do it. It totally is worth it. 
	I drove to a Ranger Station and talked with them a little about Back Country passes. She said 
Front Country when I asked about camping. I had never heard of that, and thought it was pretty cool. In 
order to see wolves, as I mentioned that I wanted to, I would have to stay in the Northeast part of the park. I 
didn’t really want to do this, so I passed on making a reservation for a backcountry pass in that part of the 
park. I figured I would just wing it tomorrow. I don’t think it will be a problem finding a cool hike. 
	I went to Mammoth Hot Springs, and the activity in that area has definitely changed. A ranger told 
me that the calcification from the water can add up to 20 inches per year, and sometimes natural springs get 
clogged up, and surface in other areas. Most of the lower terrace, that I remember as being the most active 
in my 1997 trip was dry, or not active. The hot spring that had the most activity was the Canary Spring, 
which was flowing rapidly. 
	The ranger said that Minerva spring, just moved this past Thursday, so the ground is very active, 
and changing often. I was dissapointed that the Lower and Upper Terrace were not as active as I remember 
them being, but glad that it wasn’t due to human intervention that it had occurred, but only mother Nature. 
	Then I came to Indian Creek, and learned another lesson about talking to people. I need to be more 
considerate of others time. I went up and introduced myself to another group of campers, when they were 
in the middle of there dinner. They were kind of stand offish because of it, and I realize why. Because they 
were eating, and didn’t want to be interrupted, even if it was by charming me. So, now I know, and will try 
and be more considerate ofother’s space and time in the future.
Good Night.



June 27th, 2001 10:18PM Central Time, The back seat of my car, site number 344, Bay Bridge Campground 
Yellowstone National Park.

	Today was pretty much a touristy day. I spent the entire day checking out the sites in Yellowstone 
National Park. It rained last night, thankfully I put my tent fly on before I went to bed. So, when I woke up 
this morning the fly was wet, as was the ground. I went to the bathroom, and performed my early morning 
duties. Then I went to the car, and turned it on, to cool down the stuff in my fridge. I still don’t have a good 
solution for keeping things cool at night. I am very hesitant to keep the key in the “ACC” position over 
night. I think that I would run the battery down. I may want to get another battery, or a larger one, or 
possibly get another cigarette adapter that connects directly to the battery instead of being switched. 
	I am still thinking what would be the best to do. So… I woke up, turned the car on, and had a 
breakfast of cereal and skim milk. I drank the last of the milk today, so, tomorrow, no milk with my cereal 
unless I go to a store and purchase some. I then washed dishes, and broke down my tent and sleeping stuff. 
I hung the fly between two trees, and connected it to my car, and a picnic table to try and air it out a little, 
so it would dry off from the previous nights rain. 
	I slept a little late since I was up late typing, and it wasn’t really that sunny this morning out, so I 
wasn’t to aggravated, and got out of bed around 7:30. I ended up getting out of camp around 9:00ish, which 
is generally a late start for me. I did say goodbye to “Ty and Kirstin” my deadhead camp mates from 
Wisconsin across the road. The night prior I went up and introduced myself and talked with them a bit, but 
I think I caught them in the middle of dinner, and should have been more polite. I was feeling a little bad 
about this, and was hesitant to say goodbye to them because I didn’t want to bother them, but I waited until 
they were finished with there breakfast, and just went up and talked a little and tried to be more polite this 
time. I think it went well. I wished them safe travels, and they did me. 
	Most of the night before, they were listening to the Greatful Dead, live albums from who knows 
where. But, it took me back a little. All good memories of course. While I was typing with the car running 
last night, some guy came up and asked me if I was having car trouble, because I had my car running. I 
explained that the computer, and the refrigerator were both running off the battery, and I didn’t want to 
wear it down. “Is it bothering you?” I asked. He said “No, I just wanted to make sure that you were OK.” 
“Thanks, I’m fine.” I responded. 
	So, I woke up, pooped, breakfasted, and left camp, for the Norris Geyser basin. Very cool. I spent 
a couple hours walking around that, then planned on going south around the bottom loop, and camping the 
night at Canyon. (I hoped that I would be able to get in) While I was walking around Norris, I was 
following these three young women. My initial description of there butts was “Big, Bigger, Biggest.” They 
were not the most shapley women I had met. Anyway, I was waiting to pass them, because they were 
walking side by side on the trail, and there was no way I could get around them. Finally, at an intersection, 
I was able to pass. The alpha female, (Big), then proceeded to do a little skip dance behind me while I 
walked, much to the amusement of  (Bigger and Biggest). I knew she was doing this, because I could tell in 
her gait, and breath, and the giggles of the other girls, and the reactions of the people who I was looking at, 
who saw some weird woman dancing behind me.  I know she was the alpha female, because of the way she 
led the girls conversation. 
	It didn’t bother me in the least, in fact I found it a little amusing, and smirked at another person 
looking at me while the girl was doing it. Good for her, I thought, make your friends laugh. 
	I left the camcorder on in my fanny pack, and got about 20 minutes of black walking, and shaking 
of water bottle. 
	Then I was going to go south counter clockwise around the lower loop, which would lead me back 
to Canyon, where I hoped to spend the night. A little way down the road, I realized it was around 11:30, 
and I should get a campsite at Canyon ASAP. Then I would double back and do my counter loop. I should 
have called, because I ended up heading the other way. When Canyon opened at 7:00AM, they only had 3 
sites to sell out of 340 something, the rest were reserved. Holy crap that’s a lot.
	So, then I was a little frustrated, and went south clockwise instead of back the way I intended. This 
got a little better after I got a site here, and decided to make the lower loop clockwise. I checked out the 
mud pots, and then got a site, then went to see old faithful, then the rest of the geyser type stuff between 
Old Faithful, and Madison. 
	Man, I am tired again. I gottta stop doing this to myself. Too Late. I now have three different 
garbage bags. 1 for tissues or paper that can be burned, one for things that need to be thrown out, mainly 
plastics, and one which I am trying to use as a compost bag. So, far, things aren’t decomposing too rapidly.  
I wonder if keeping it air tight has anything to do with this. 
	Oh, I met a girl from England who is touring the states by herself. I missed an opportunity to hang 
out with her more too. Her name was Julie. We only talked breifly, then she had to catch her bus. I should 
have said “That’s a pity, because you seem nice, and I would like to talk with you more.” – Then I could 
offer her a ride to where ever her campsite was in my car instead of her having to take the tour bus. But I 
just wished her well. I didn’t think of the nice thing to say until later. Oh well. She had beautiful blue eyes, 
and Redish hair. Very much a Brit. 
	Tonight I am sleeping in my car. 
-Oh, I finished the day looking out inspiration point at the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. That was 
nice. 

Oh, I got sunburned on my arms, neck, and head today. I was a bad dooby, and forgot to put sunscreen on. 
Usually I am dilligent in that regard, but I didn’t think about it today. Now I have a red band instead of a 
head band on my noggin. Bummer. 



10:28PM June 28th, Somewhere in the Lolo National Forest, outside Missoula, MT

	Finding a place to stay for free on Public Lands is always hit or miss. Usually the spots are on 
maps indicated by “Green Areas”, and saying “such and such national forest”. Usually when you get on 
these lands, you can usually spot the places that will be cool for overnight camping relatively easily. They 
are usually unmarked dirt roads, that look like they have been used a little bit. Usually, they are around a 
bend, or kind of veer off the main road, just enough that they are slightly secluded, without being difficult 
to find or get to. 
	Sometimes, these places are indicated with the telltale Brown Signs with white lettering, saying 
Forest Access ¼ mile, or something. Sometimes, there are even campgrounds that are “self pay,” meaning 
that there are envelopes that are there for you to fill out, and put your money in.  There is usually a large 
sign with instructions at these places indicating what to do. These places are frequented by people who 
usually don’t put money in the envelopes. – Or, there are places close by that do not have fees associated 
with them.
	Other times, the places are not so easy to find. On the map, it might be green, and all the telltale 
signs might be there, but there just might not be a place. Take tonight for example. I took exit 126 of off 
route 90 heading west towards Missoula. On the map, it was a totally green area, and I had high hopes, 
because the road was dashed white and black, meaning that in places hopefully it was dirt, thus increasing 
the chances that a free place would be easy to find. 
	Tofu, Bulk Cliff Bars, and Hommus.
	Off the highway, there was even  a sign saying “Recreational Area”, a very good sign indeed. As I 
took the exit, for the first 2 miles, I was hopeful. Then I came to the first area, that I thought would be 
good. It had a sign that said Fishing Access ¼ mile. I took the little bridge across Red Creek, and the first 
thing I saw was a sign saying “No Overnight Camping” – Bullcrap! So, I turned around, and continued on 
down the road. Next Fishing access place. “No Overnight Camping” again. 
	I passed maybe a couple other places along the way, but I started seeing peoples houses, and 
ranches, and stuff. Not a good sign. I am always confused about these things. Is this land public, or private. 
Did my tax dollars not fund this land in some way shape of form? – Or did these people just live here 
before it was a National Forest? – Or is it not National Forest, right next to the road? I don’t know. 
	Anyway, 8 miles up the road, I was still not having luck, and it was getting late. I wanted to eat, 
and go to sleep. Finally, I came to a sign that said pointed right, and it was a dirt road. Good. A step in the 
right direction, no pun intended. So, I took the road. The Outback handled the minor bumps, and ruts like a 
champ. A while up the road, more houses and such. I felt like I was in a weird dream somewhere in rural 
Alabama. – No, this was Montana, same vowel sound at the end, but different states indeed. 
	After about a mile or so, there were less and less residences on the road. Finally I found a spot. It 
looked like a rarely used logging road, but it suited my purposes just fine. A little ways up, the road got a 
little more rutty than the main access road, and there was definitely no places to turn around if I needed to. I 
think on the right, there was a creek. The dirt road off the main road, kind of was in a little valley, so a little 
ways up, I was getting frustrated, and thinking “When is national Forest, not national forest? – When you 
are near Missoula, that’s when.”
	But, I found a spot, and backed the outback into it. It’s kind of slim, and a little sketchy, but I 
think it will work. Hey, I have all wheel drive, so hopefully I won’t get stuck. – If I do, it’s gonna be a long 
walk. 
	Today, I mostly drove from Yellowstone, and checked out the Grand Canyon of the yellowstone. 
It was beautiful. That is a fact jack. I think the first time you come to yellowstone, and see the G.C. of it. 
You seriously cannot comprehend it’s beauty. This time, I think I could comprehend it and appreciate it, 
but it still totally looked like a painting. The only thing that made me believe it wasn’t a painting, was 
watching the river flow in the base. Other than that, it was a painting. I got a ton of pictures, and footage. 
	As I was driving towards Mammoth from Tower, I went to pass a guy, and he got freaked out, and 
told me he was a ranger, and to pull over. I could tell that he was a little nervous. I wasn’t really, because I 
really didn’t feel like I was doing anything terribly wrong. Maybe I was speeding a little, but here is my 
philosophy on that.
1. Everyone who has ever driven an automobile has sped at one point in there lives or another.
2. Therefore, everyone is a criminal in the strictest sense of the word.
3. Physically speaking, the rate of safe automobile travel on roads, is probably at least 10 – 20 
miles per hour faster than the posted speed limit.
4. Given these facts, we can make a stretch, and say that a “Speed Limit” is really a 
recommendation for safe speed.
5. Some people feel comfortable driving at slower speeds, while other people feel comfortable 
driving faster. 
6. I believe the people that designed the roads in Yellowstone realize this, and that’s why they 
post signs that say “Slower Traffic Use turnouts”
7. This to me indicates, that people who feel comfortable traveling at a slower rate of speed, 
should move off the road, so that people who feel like traveling at a faster rate of speed, can 
get to where they are going. 
8. So, if you break it all down, I just feel comfortable traveling at a faster rate of speed, and if 
you want to drive slower, you should get out of my way. 

Some Caveats to this of course. People in positions of authority, such as police, or in this case park 
rangers, can certainly make recommendations and warnings about appropriate rates of speed, and because 
they are poliece or park rangers, I respect that, and will adjust my speed accordingly. – I still feel that the 
speed I want to travel is appropriate however. 
Which is why I slowed down a little when frantic boy pulled me over. He was totally nervous, and 
whipped out his park ranger id, and started waving it in the air. He said “I AM a park ranger you know!”, 
then fumbled in his wallet for his badge, I said “I believe you”. Then he said “Where are you going, do you 
know the speed limit, bla bla bla.” Then he tried to tell me that I was passing on a solid yellow line. I 
wouldn’t have been, but I had to slow down when he started waving his arm out his window, and I traveled 
passed the dashed line. 
I guess I never knew. Is it illegal to pass if you start the pass on the dotted yellow line, then finish 
on the solid? – I’m not sure. I imagine the engineers, built in a little extra tolerance for this too.
Anyway, he started whining, and I slowed down, because I didn’t want any problems. I wasn’t too 
impressed that he was a park ranger though. Maybe he thought I should have been. 

So, I made it out of the park around, 4:00 or so, then went to Bozeman looking for food, and 
supplies. Got some of it, found out information on other parts, and called Kristen. We are going to go to 
Glacier on Saturday and go hiking. I am stoked! I like driving in Montana. It is so beautiful, and it’s 75 
miles per hour, so the miles fly by. 
I will check out missoula tomorrow, then go to Libby. I should be able to send an update with 
Kristen’s phone tomorrow or this weekend. Should be good. OK, my back hurts I am going to bed.  


June 29, 30, July 1st.

	June 29th
Quickies.
If you ever are interested in doing some serious outdoor stuff, come see Kristen Feinwood in Libby 
Montana. I pulled into town around 6:00PM on Friday with a bad case of Poison Ivy. This did not stop 
Kristen, nor did the missing bolt on my seat clamp. We were going riding, and then out to dinner with her 
friends at the Red Dog. So we got to our starting point, and Of course I discovered the missing bolt on my 
seat post clamp. So I went for the 6 mile ride standing. + No seat. 
	Then we came back, and met her friends out at the Red Dog. Where Pizza and Beer are the fare. It 
was glorious. Especially since I got to shower, since I hadn’t in 5 days prior. After meeting Dave, and wife 
Wendy, both who hunted, and each had mules. Dave’s mules name was Steve. We came home, and I slept 
like a baby. 
	Earlier during the day, I checked out Missoula. Not too much fun, because of nervousness about 
Poison Ivy foot, and oil on things. I didn’t take the prednisone that I had a prescription for, because I didn’t 
think it was going to get worse than just my foot. So far, so good. – We shall see though. I spent two hours 
looking at the beautiful women in R.E.I, and eventually bought a lexan knife, some bug spray (deet 
included), and a smaller plastic container. (I can’t remember the brand name. They are manufactured near 
Rochester though).
	Then I videod the townspeople, and looked into purchasing a power inverter so I could listen to 
mp3’s / cd’s on my laptop while driving. But I decided not to get it. Then took the rest of the day, and had a 
beautiful ride to Libby. 90 -> St. Regis, -> 200 to 65 North, -> Libby.
	June 30th
	Saturday, we decided to make a trip to Glacier National Park to climb the Highline trail. This was 
about a 14 mile hike round trip. Of course I couldn’t let Kristen leave logan pass without doing the Hidden 
Lake’s trail which I wrote about in my journal 5 years ago. – However, it wasn’t half as cool as it had been 
before. Too many people. 
	That’s actually the same feeling I got in Yellowstone. Too many people. I think everyone should 
go to the National Parks once. And then not again, because it’s certainly not the same the second time. 
	So the highline trail took us from about 1:00PM, until 6:00PM. We hiked in some pretty steep 
terrain, across some waterfalls, and snowfields. The average altitude was around 7500 feet or so. After a 
while, the Mountain Goat’s on the trail became a nusicance, and when we saw them, we no longer reached 
for our cameras, but yelled and whistled, to get them out of the path.
	We didn’t make it to the Chalet, but had some spectacular views, and escaped without 
encountering any Grizzly Bears, which several other hikers along the way, said they saw. Kristen was 
definitely concerned about Grizzly Bears, and her concern rubbed off on me a little to make me slightly 
paranoid. 
	After the hike, we went into Whitefish to see Kristen’s friends who were visiting. We saw Amy, 
and Leslie, as well as Derrick, and George. Leslie and Derrick were married. George was head over heals 
for Kristen, and Amy was visiting from her home in Connecticut. Oh, by the way, it stays light around here 
until 10:00PM. So, people usually end up staying up later. We went to a Bar in Whitefish that had a bunch 
of signs from defunct businesses in the Whitefish area. It was a local hangout, with some definitely colorful 
people. The band playing was “The Coyote’s” or something. They were a 80’s – 00’s cover band. Not too 
impressive. 
	Eventually Kristen was done talking with friends, and we started on the 2 hour drive back to 
Libby. I was exhausted, but tried to stay awake for the ride back to help spot deer, and to keep Kristen 
awake for the drive. It started raining massive thunderstorm on the way back, so that wasn’t too cool either.  
We made it back intact, but beat though. She said I was really funny, because I kept mumbling ½ asleep 
and ½ awake. I tend to do that when I am exhausted. 
	
	July 1st.
	Today went for a long ride. Also water proofed my new boots, with Nikwax. It’s so nice to have a 
house. Did I tell you Kristen and her sister rent an entire house for around 500 dollars a month. They even 
have a two car garage. Wow. So, Waxed the boots, and put them in the Garage.
	Then got ready for the Libby Peak ride. We drove up to the top, (I wanted to ride), and had about 2 
+ ½ hours of single track, and fire road down. I wrecked once in the early beginning, on a tight corner that 
had a lot of debris on it. My front end dug in, and I went ass over teakettle. I broke my riding computer, and 
was a little pissed about it, but was fine. I got back on, and kept down the hill without Kristen even 
knowing. I told her later, when I was trying to remove my computer, because I knew that since it was 
hanging from the wire, that it would eventually break and fall off. – I couldn’t get it off, so said “Screw it”. 
Later, in a tougher downhill section, it fell off. – And I was pissed that I didn’t just pull it off before. 
	When Kristen caught up, she said “I found your computer” – I was happy, hopefully they sell just 
the mounting bracket and sensor. But I doubt it. When we got to the bottom, I was feeling pretty good, so I 
said “I am thinking about riding back to the top to get your car.” Kristen responded “Go for it!” 11 miles of 
up Lindy Peak, Leg’s screaming, exhausted, and famished I finally made it to her 2001 Black Explorer. 
When I saw the car, I think I heard Angles sing. Then I let out a feeble Yaaa Hoo, and gobbled up ½ of the 
deli sandwhich that I had bought earlier. – The cheese had melted from being in the car for 5 hours, and my 
½ gatorade + ½ water mixture was about the temperature of 20 minute old coffee. But, damn did they taste 
good.
	40 minutes later I was back on paved road with the explorer. I went to the back to get Kristen’s 
cell which she had loaned me, to call and let her know I was Okey Dokey. As I was passing the rear of the 
car, I heard a hissing sound coming from the Rear passenger side tire. For a second, I thought it might be 
the engine or something, but upon further inspection, and feeling the air leak, I realized I must have hit 
some glass, or something sharp. 
	I called her with the bad news, and she said “Just drive it back.” –I got back to her house just in 
time, because the Explorer was pretty much undriveable. But, the good thing, is that Kristen learned how to 
change a flat. She needed service on it anyway, and is going to bring it in tomorrow. I will pay for the plug 
of course.
	-Fireworks are legal in Montana. These past three days, especially since the 4th of July is so soon, 
have been loud, and un-nerveing. It pretty much sounds like a war zone from about 8:00PM – 10:00PM 
every night. And there are firework vendors on every street corner you see. 
	That leaves tonight. I am doing a small journal, then hitting the sack. – Maybe a little e-mail