June 26, 2001 Indian Creek Campground, Yellowstone National Park.

	Well, I have just finished the "Devil's Tower Story", 5 friggen pages, and 2.5 hours later. Umm, 
today… Today was a leisurely drive from the KOA in Cody Wyoming to Yellowstone N.P. I took the 
Northeast Route, because of a recommendation of a National Forest worker outside one of the po-dunk 
Wyoming towns that I past on my way. It turned out to be beautiful. I think everything is beautiful, when 
you get this far west though. Snowcapped peaks in every direction. Miles and miles of evergreen's. 
Mountain Lakes and Rivers.  Incredible vistas. You name it, they got it. 
	The day started out with free Pancakes at the KOA. They used styrofoam plates. BAD BAD BAD! 
I used my own camp mess kit plate, and washed it afterwards. Then I broke down my site, and headed to 
the Buffalo Bill Museum. It was pretty cool. It wasn't something that I went nuts for, because that type of 
art / etc. Doesn't really interest me too much. I think my favorite part was the contemporary stuff. It was 
much more visually interesting than the historical stuff. 
	For example, there was a whole wing dedicated to firearms. Yee Haw! – What interested me here 
was not the guns, but the big game trophies.  I am surprised they did. But they did. The Native American 
stuff was interesting also, but seemed to lack a spirit. The Buffalo Bill and his "Rough Riders" memorbila 
didn't interest me at all.  All in all I would give the museum a 7 out of 10. It had a lot of cool stuff, but I 
just don't think I was in the mood. 
	They did however let you take pictures inside the museum which surprised me. But I joined in, 
and got a couple shots of the stuff that I thought was interesting in one way or another. 
	Then I drove to Yellowstone. I took Route 120 to 296 (The chief Joseph Scenic Byway). This took 
me into Montana, and then into Yellowstone. The road was long and twisty. At one of the passes, I noticed 
an access road leading up to a higher place than was accessible via paved road. I figured, since I have a car 
that is at least semi built for off road usage, that I would put it to the test. 
	It performed admirabally. On the way down there were a bunch of loose rocks, and I applied the 
brakes. At first I was concerned when they seemed to go to the floor, but then I realized that it was just the 
ABS, and that they were catching on the rocks. It just felt like they were going to the floor. --- Or did it…. I 
am still a little concerned about this car's health. It seems to be working fine so far, but I don't quite have 
that trust that I like to have. Maybe I will never Have it, I don't know.
	Then I got into Yellowstone. 20 minutes into the park, I saw  Buffalo about 20 feet away. 45 
seconds after that I saw a herd of them. Another 10 minutes down the road, some female elk, then a little 
while later, a solo prong horn antelope. – Yes, my friends when you come to Yellowstone, expect to see 
wildlife. – If you haven't ever made it out here, do yourself a favor, and do it. It totally is worth it. 
	I drove to a Ranger Station and talked with them a little about Back Country passes. She said 
Front Country when I asked about camping. I had never heard of that, and thought it was pretty cool. In 
order to see wolves, as I mentioned that I wanted to, I would have to stay in the Northeast part of the park. I 
didn't really want to do this, so I passed on making a reservation for a backcountry pass in that part of the 
park. I figured I would just wing it tomorrow. I don't think it will be a problem finding a cool hike. 
	I went to Mammoth Hot Springs, and the activity in that area has definitely changed. A ranger told 
me that the calcification from the water can add up to 20 inches per year, and sometimes natural springs get 
clogged up, and surface in other areas. Most of the lower terrace, that I remember as being the most active 
in my 1997 trip was dry, or not active. The hot spring that had the most activity was the Canary Spring, 
which was flowing rapidly. 
	The ranger said that Minerva spring, just moved this past Thursday, so the ground is very active, 
and changing often. I was dissapointed that the Lower and Upper Terrace were not as active as I remember 
them being, but glad that it wasn't due to human intervention that it had occurred, but only mother Nature. 
	Then I came to Indian Creek, and learned another lesson about talking to people. I need to be more 
considerate of others time. I went up and introduced myself to another group of campers, when they were 
in the middle of there dinner. They were kind of stand offish because of it, and I realize why. Because they 
were eating, and didn't want to be interrupted, even if it was by charming me. So, now I know, and will try 
and be more considerate ofother's space and time in the future.
Good Night.

June 27th, 2001 10:18PM Central Time, The back seat of my car, site number 344, Bay Bridge Campground 
Yellowstone National Park.

	Today was pretty much a touristy day. I spent the entire day checking out the sites in Yellowstone 
National Park. It rained last night, thankfully I put my tent fly on before I went to bed. So, when I woke up 
this morning the fly was wet, as was the ground. I went to the bathroom, and performed my early morning 
duties. Then I went to the car, and turned it on, to cool down the stuff in my fridge. I still don't have a good 
solution for keeping things cool at night. I am very hesitant to keep the key in the "ACC" position over 
night. I think that I would run the battery down. I may want to get another battery, or a larger one, or 
possibly get another cigarette adapter that connects directly to the battery instead of being switched. 
	I am still thinking what would be the best to do. So… I woke up, turned the car on, and had a 
breakfast of cereal and skim milk. I drank the last of the milk today, so, tomorrow, no milk with my cereal 
unless I go to a store and purchase some. I then washed dishes, and broke down my tent and sleeping stuff. 
I hung the fly between two trees, and connected it to my car, and a picnic table to try and air it out a little, 
so it would dry off from the previous nights rain. 
	I slept a little late since I was up late typing, and it wasn't really that sunny this morning out, so I 
wasn't to aggravated, and got out of bed around 7:30. I ended up getting out of camp around 9:00ish, which 
is generally a late start for me. I did say goodbye to "Ty and Kirstin" my deadhead camp mates from 
Wisconsin across the road. The night prior I went up and introduced myself and talked with them a bit, but 
I think I caught them in the middle of dinner, and should have been more polite. I was feeling a little bad 
about this, and was hesitant to say goodbye to them because I didn't want to bother them, but I waited until 
they were finished with there breakfast, and just went up and talked a little and tried to be more polite this 
time. I think it went well. I wished them safe travels, and they did me. 
	Most of the night before, they were listening to the Greatful Dead, live albums from who knows 
where. But, it took me back a little. All good memories of course. While I was typing with the car running 
last night, some guy came up and asked me if I was having car trouble, because I had my car running. I 
explained that the computer, and the refrigerator were both running off the battery, and I didn't want to 
wear it down. "Is it bothering you?" I asked. He said "No, I just wanted to make sure that you were OK." 
"Thanks, I'm fine." I responded. 
	So, I woke up, pooped, breakfasted, and left camp, for the Norris Geyser basin. Very cool. I spent 
a couple hours walking around that, then planned on going south around the bottom loop, and camping the 
night at Canyon. (I hoped that I would be able to get in) While I was walking around Norris, I was 
following these three young women. My initial description of there butts was "Big, Bigger, Biggest." They 
were not the most shapley women I had met. Anyway, I was waiting to pass them, because they were 
walking side by side on the trail, and there was no way I could get around them. Finally, at an intersection, 
I was able to pass. The alpha female, (Big), then proceeded to do a little skip dance behind me while I 
walked, much to the amusement of  (Bigger and Biggest). I knew she was doing this, because I could tell in 
her gait, and breath, and the giggles of the other girls, and the reactions of the people who I was looking at, 
who saw some weird woman dancing behind me.  I know she was the alpha female, because of the way she 
led the girls conversation. 
	It didn't bother me in the least, in fact I found it a little amusing, and smirked at another person 
looking at me while the girl was doing it. Good for her, I thought, make your friends laugh. 
	I left the camcorder on in my fanny pack, and got about 20 minutes of black walking, and shaking 
of water bottle. 
	Then I was going to go south counter clockwise around the lower loop, which would lead me back 
to Canyon, where I hoped to spend the night. A little way down the road, I realized it was around 11:30, 
and I should get a campsite at Canyon ASAP. Then I would double back and do my counter loop. I should 
have called, because I ended up heading the other way. When Canyon opened at 7:00AM, they only had 3 
sites to sell out of 340 something, the rest were reserved. Holy crap that's a lot.
	So, then I was a little frustrated, and went south clockwise instead of back the way I intended. This 
got a little better after I got a site here, and decided to make the lower loop clockwise. I checked out the 
mud pots, and then got a site, then went to see old faithful, then the rest of the geyser type stuff between 
Old Faithful, and Madison. 
	Man, I am tired again. I gottta stop doing this to myself. Too Late. I now have three different 
garbage bags. 1 for tissues or paper that can be burned, one for things that need to be thrown out, mainly 
plastics, and one which I am trying to use as a compost bag. So, far, things aren't decomposing too rapidly.  
I wonder if keeping it air tight has anything to do with this. 
	Oh, I met a girl from England who is touring the states by herself. I missed an opportunity to hang 
out with her more too. Her name was Julie. We only talked breifly, then she had to catch her bus. I should 
have said "That's a pity, because you seem nice, and I would like to talk with you more." – Then I could 
offer her a ride to where ever her campsite was in my car instead of her having to take the tour bus. But I 
just wished her well. I didn't think of the nice thing to say until later. Oh well. She had beautiful blue eyes, 
and Redish hair. Very much a Brit. 
	Tonight I am sleeping in my car. 
-Oh, I finished the day looking out inspiration point at the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. That was 
nice. 

Oh, I got sunburned on my arms, neck, and head today. I was a bad dooby, and forgot to put sunscreen on. 
Usually I am dilligent in that regard, but I didn't think about it today. Now I have a red band instead of a 
head band on my noggin. Bummer. 

10:28PM June 28th, Somewhere in the Lolo National Forest, outside Missoula, MT

	Finding a place to stay for free on Public Lands is always hit or miss. Usually the spots are on 
maps indicated by "Green Areas", and saying "such and such national forest". Usually when you get on 
these lands, you can usually spot the places that will be cool for overnight camping relatively easily. They 
are usually unmarked dirt roads, that look like they have been used a little bit. Usually, they are around a 
bend, or kind of veer off the main road, just enough that they are slightly secluded, without being difficult 
to find or get to. 
	Sometimes, these places are indicated with the telltale Brown Signs with white lettering, saying 
Forest Access Ό mile, or something. Sometimes, there are even campgrounds that are "self pay," meaning 
that there are envelopes that are there for you to fill out, and put your money in.  There is usually a large 
sign with instructions at these places indicating what to do. These places are frequented by people who 
usually don't put money in the envelopes. – Or, there are places close by that do not have fees associated 
with them.
	Other times, the places are not so easy to find. On the map, it might be green, and all the telltale 
signs might be there, but there just might not be a place. Take tonight for example. I took exit 126 of off 
route 90 heading west towards Missoula. On the map, it was a totally green area, and I had high hopes, 
because the road was dashed white and black, meaning that in places hopefully it was dirt, thus increasing 
the chances that a free place would be easy to find. 
	Tofu, Bulk Cliff Bars, and Hommus.
	Off the highway, there was even  a sign saying "Recreational Area", a very good sign indeed. As I 
took the exit, for the first 2 miles, I was hopeful. Then I came to the first area, that I thought would be 
good. It had a sign that said Fishing Access Ό mile. I took the little bridge across Red Creek, and the first 
thing I saw was a sign saying "No Overnight Camping" – Bullcrap! So, I turned around, and continued on 
down the road. Next Fishing access place. "No Overnight Camping" again. 
	I passed maybe a couple other places along the way, but I started seeing peoples houses, and 
ranches, and stuff. Not a good sign. I am always confused about these things. Is this land public, or private. 
Did my tax dollars not fund this land in some way shape of form? – Or did these people just live here 
before it was a National Forest? – Or is it not National Forest, right next to the road? I don't know. 
	Anyway, 8 miles up the road, I was still not having luck, and it was getting late. I wanted to eat, 
and go to sleep. Finally, I came to a sign that said pointed right, and it was a dirt road. Good. A step in the 
right direction, no pun intended. So, I took the road. The Outback handled the minor bumps, and ruts like a 
champ. A while up the road, more houses and such. I felt like I was in a weird dream somewhere in rural 
Alabama. – No, this was Montana, same vowel sound at the end, but different states indeed. 
	After about a mile or so, there were less and less residences on the road. Finally I found a spot. It 
looked like a rarely used logging road, but it suited my purposes just fine. A little ways up, the road got a 
little more rutty than the main access road, and there was definitely no places to turn around if I needed to. I 
think on the right, there was a creek. The dirt road off the main road, kind of was in a little valley, so a little 
ways up, I was getting frustrated, and thinking "When is national Forest, not national forest? – When you 
are near Missoula, that's when."
	But, I found a spot, and backed the outback into it. It's kind of slim, and a little sketchy, but I 
think it will work. Hey, I have all wheel drive, so hopefully I won't get stuck. – If I do, it's gonna be a long 
walk. 
	Today, I mostly drove from Yellowstone, and checked out the Grand Canyon of the yellowstone. 
It was beautiful. That is a fact jack. I think the first time you come to yellowstone, and see the G.C. of it. 
You seriously cannot comprehend it's beauty. This time, I think I could comprehend it and appreciate it, 
but it still totally looked like a painting. The only thing that made me believe it wasn't a painting, was 
watching the river flow in the base. Other than that, it was a painting. I got a ton of pictures, and footage. 
	As I was driving towards Mammoth from Tower, I went to pass a guy, and he got freaked out, and 
told me he was a ranger, and to pull over. I could tell that he was a little nervous. I wasn't really, because I 
really didn't feel like I was doing anything terribly wrong. Maybe I was speeding a little, but here is my 
philosophy on that.
1. Everyone who has ever driven an automobile has sped at one point in there lives or another.
2. Therefore, everyone is a criminal in the strictest sense of the word.
3. Physically speaking, the rate of safe automobile travel on roads, is probably at least 10 – 20 
miles per hour faster than the posted speed limit.
4. Given these facts, we can make a stretch, and say that a "Speed Limit" is really a 
recommendation for safe speed.
5. Some people feel comfortable driving at slower speeds, while other people feel comfortable 
driving faster. 
6. I believe the people that designed the roads in Yellowstone realize this, and that's why they 
post signs that say "Slower Traffic Use turnouts"
7. This to me indicates, that people who feel comfortable traveling at a slower rate of speed, 
should move off the road, so that people who feel like traveling at a faster rate of speed, can 
get to where they are going. 
8. So, if you break it all down, I just feel comfortable traveling at a faster rate of speed, and if 
you want to drive slower, you should get out of my way. 

Some Caveats to this of course. People in positions of authority, such as police, or in this case park 
rangers, can certainly make recommendations and warnings about appropriate rates of speed, and because 
they are poliece or park rangers, I respect that, and will adjust my speed accordingly. – I still feel that the 
speed I want to travel is appropriate however. 
Which is why I slowed down a little when frantic boy pulled me over. He was totally nervous, and 
whipped out his park ranger id, and started waving it in the air. He said "I AM a park ranger you know!", 
then fumbled in his wallet for his badge, I said "I believe you". Then he said "Where are you going, do you 
know the speed limit, bla bla bla." Then he tried to tell me that I was passing on a solid yellow line. I 
wouldn't have been, but I had to slow down when he started waving his arm out his window, and I traveled 
passed the dashed line. 
I guess I never knew. Is it illegal to pass if you start the pass on the dotted yellow line, then finish 
on the solid? – I'm not sure. I imagine the engineers, built in a little extra tolerance for this too.
Anyway, he started whining, and I slowed down, because I didn't want any problems. I wasn't too 
impressed that he was a park ranger though. Maybe he thought I should have been. 

So, I made it out of the park around, 4:00 or so, then went to Bozeman looking for food, and 
supplies. Got some of it, found out information on other parts, and called Kristen. We are going to go to 
Glacier on Saturday and go hiking. I am stoked! I like driving in Montana. It is so beautiful, and it's 75 
miles per hour, so the miles fly by. 
I will check out missoula tomorrow, then go to Libby. I should be able to send an update with 
Kristen's phone tomorrow or this weekend. Should be good. OK, my back hurts I am going to bed.  
June 29, 30, July 1st.

	June 29th
Quickies.
If you ever are interested in doing some serious outdoor stuff, come see Kristen Feinwood in Libby 
Montana. I pulled into town around 6:00PM on Friday with a bad case of Poison Ivy. This did not stop 
Kristen, nor did the missing bolt on my seat clamp. We were going riding, and then out to dinner with her 
friends at the Red Dog. So we got to our starting point, and Of course I discovered the missing bolt on my 
seat post clamp. So I went for the 6 mile ride standing. + No seat. 
	Then we came back, and met her friends out at the Red Dog. Where Pizza and Beer are the fare. It 
was glorious. Especially since I got to shower, since I hadn't in 5 days prior. After meeting Dave, and wife 
Wendy, both who hunted, and each had mules. Dave's mules name was Steve. We came home, and I slept 
like a baby. 
	Earlier during the day, I checked out Missoula. Not too much fun, because of nervousness about 
Poison Ivy foot, and oil on things. I didn't take the prednisone that I had a prescription for, because I didn't 
think it was going to get worse than just my foot. So far, so good. – We shall see though. I spent two hours 
looking at the beautiful women in R.E.I, and eventually bought a lexan knife, some bug spray (deet 
included), and a smaller plastic container. (I can't remember the brand name. They are manufactured near 
Rochester though).
	Then I videod the townspeople, and looked into purchasing a power inverter so I could listen to 
mp3's / cd's on my laptop while driving. But I decided not to get it. Then took the rest of the day, and had a 
beautiful ride to Libby. 90 -> St. Regis, -> 200 to 65 North, -> Libby.
	June 30th
	Saturday, we decided to make a trip to Glacier National Park to climb the Highline trail. This was 
about a 14 mile hike round trip. Of course I couldn't let Kristen leave logan pass without doing the Hidden 
Lake's trail which I wrote about in my journal 5 years ago. – However, it wasn't half as cool as it had been 
before. Too many people. 
	That's actually the same feeling I got in Yellowstone. Too many people. I think everyone should 
go to the National Parks once. And then not again, because it's certainly not the same the second time. 
	So the highline trail took us from about 1:00PM, until 6:00PM. We hiked in some pretty steep 
terrain, across some waterfalls, and snowfields. The average altitude was around 7500 feet or so. After a 
while, the Mountain Goat's on the trail became a nusicance, and when we saw them, we no longer reached 
for our cameras, but yelled and whistled, to get them out of the path.
	We didn't make it to the Chalet, but had some spectacular views, and escaped without 
encountering any Grizzly Bears, which several other hikers along the way, said they saw. Kristen was 
definitely concerned about Grizzly Bears, and her concern rubbed off on me a little to make me slightly 
paranoid. 
	After the hike, we went into Whitefish to see Kristen's friends who were visiting. We saw Amy, 
and Leslie, as well as Derrick, and George. Leslie and Derrick were married. George was head over heals 
for Kristen, and Amy was visiting from her home in Connecticut. Oh, by the way, it stays light around here 
until 10:00PM. So, people usually end up staying up later. We went to a Bar in Whitefish that had a bunch 
of signs from defunct businesses in the Whitefish area. It was a local hangout, with some definitely colorful 
people. The band playing was "The Coyote's" or something. They were a 80's – 00's cover band. Not too 
impressive. 
	Eventually Kristen was done talking with friends, and we started on the 2 hour drive back to 
Libby. I was exhausted, but tried to stay awake for the ride back to help spot deer, and to keep Kristen 
awake for the drive. It started raining massive thunderstorm on the way back, so that wasn't too cool either.  
We made it back intact, but beat though. She said I was really funny, because I kept mumbling ½ asleep 
and ½ awake. I tend to do that when I am exhausted. 
	
	July 1st.
	Today went for a long ride. Also water proofed my new boots, with Nikwax. It's so nice to have a 
house. Did I tell you Kristen and her sister rent an entire house for around 500 dollars a month. They even 
have a two car garage. Wow. So, Waxed the boots, and put them in the Garage.
	Then got ready for the Libby Peak ride. We drove up to the top, (I wanted to ride), and had about 2 
+ ½ hours of single track, and fire road down. I wrecked once in the early beginning, on a tight corner that 
had a lot of debris on it. My front end dug in, and I went ass over teakettle. I broke my riding computer, and 
was a little pissed about it, but was fine. I got back on, and kept down the hill without Kristen even 
knowing. I told her later, when I was trying to remove my computer, because I knew that since it was 
hanging from the wire, that it would eventually break and fall off. – I couldn't get it off, so said "Screw it". 
Later, in a tougher downhill section, it fell off. – And I was pissed that I didn't just pull it off before. 
	When Kristen caught up, she said "I found your computer" – I was happy, hopefully they sell just 
the mounting bracket and sensor. But I doubt it. When we got to the bottom, I was feeling pretty good, so I 
said "I am thinking about riding back to the top to get your car." Kristen responded "Go for it!" 11 miles of 
up Lindy Peak, Leg's screaming, exhausted, and famished I finally made it to her 2001 Black Explorer. 
When I saw the car, I think I heard Angles sing. Then I let out a feeble Yaaa Hoo, and gobbled up ½ of the 
deli sandwhich that I had bought earlier. – The cheese had melted from being in the car for 5 hours, and my 
½ gatorade + ½ water mixture was about the temperature of 20 minute old coffee. But, damn did they taste 
good.
	40 minutes later I was back on paved road with the explorer. I went to the back to get Kristen's 
cell which she had loaned me, to call and let her know I was Okey Dokey. As I was passing the rear of the 
car, I heard a hissing sound coming from the Rear passenger side tire. For a second, I thought it might be 
the engine or something, but upon further inspection, and feeling the air leak, I realized I must have hit 
some glass, or something sharp. 
	I called her with the bad news, and she said "Just drive it back." –I got back to her house just in 
time, because the Explorer was pretty much undriveable. But, the good thing, is that Kristen learned how to 
change a flat. She needed service on it anyway, and is going to bring it in tomorrow. I will pay for the plug 
of course.
	-Fireworks are legal in Montana. These past three days, especially since the 4th of July is so soon, 
have been loud, and un-nerveing. It pretty much sounds like a war zone from about 8:00PM – 10:00PM 
every night. And there are firework vendors on every street corner you see. 
	That leaves tonight. I am doing a small journal, then hitting the sack. – Maybe a little e-mail